A seafood shack that's more like a diamond
than a pearl.
In 1997, Mary Redding turned a taste for shellfish into big business at Cornelia Street's Pearl Oyster Bar. After splitting from Pearl, Redding has opened what may be the city's ultimate meta-restaurant: a simple corner spot intended to suggest a charmingly ramshackle mess hall at a Florida fish camp. Rod-and-reel rental prices and a list of "rules" on the backs of the menus make the conceit convincing and fun.
Seafood prepared with a keen sense of how to accentuate its flavor. Lightly-fried shrimp, for example, rely on a magical salt crust; New England clam chowder employs tiny cubes of crisp bacon at the bottom of each foamy bowl; and a daily-special skate filet set against black-eyed peas achieves mastery because of a perfect, crusty saute. Dan McAlvanah Recommended Dishes Salt-crusted shrimp, New England clam chowder, lobster roll, little neck clams, Malpeque oysters and whole grilled fish. What to Drink No hard alcohol, but three draft beers (including Guinness) and a handful of well-matched wines by the glass (poured into small juice glasses, no less). Avoid the Wait Mary's doesn't take reservations, and primetime tables are becoming increasingly difficult to come by without a wait. Arrive early for faster seating.
Back to Press