Mary's Fish Camp Lobster Roll Supremacy Reaffirmed
by Joshua David Stein
The other night we went to Mary's Fish Camp in the West Village. Though we've loved their lobster roll in the past, it was time reexamine their claim of primacy in the arena of lobster rolls. The big three are always Mary's, Pearl and Mermaid Inn. Recently, Urban Lobster opened up on Houston and entered into the claw-fight. Sure other places have lobster rolls but to frequent them is akin to going on a hajj and stopping at Medina. So yeah the holy trinity. Any knowledgeable epicure can immediately dismiss Mermaid Inn for the half-assed lobster sandwich they put together. There are many elements that are disgraceful about the "roll"-a faulty mixture of mayo and lobster, the brioche on which it is served, the fact that one is forced to finish the meal--if one wants dessert at all--with a gelatinous chocolate pudding. Pearl Oyster Bar is good, don't get us wrong. But it is at Mary's where the frisson of fresh fish and Sapphic love commingle. Our lobster roll last night, preceded by a sinful (eye flutter) Crab Au Gratin, was meaty but not too much; creamy but not overly and nestled into a bun so harmoniously ripping it apart gave us pause. Our advice is to shun the uptight Pearl, the lackluster and poorly seasoned Urban Lobster, the joke of a roll at Mermaid, give Mary your number if there's a wait, and get your roll on.
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